10 July 2013

Short Ribs Cooked For A Very Long Time



   
     Bought some beef short ribs from Elsco. 2 slabs. Both left on bone. Trimmed one.    


Then smoked the trimmed one. Smoked using mostly hickory and a little bit of oak. Lowest temp for the (hot) smoker, on an elevated rack to keep it even cooler and maximize the smoke. Left it in the smoker for 2 hours 20 minutes. Pulled it out when the hottest sub-surface temp was around 51C, and core temp was in the 40s.

Double-bagged both the smoked and the unsmoked, untrimmed control slab of short ribs and cooked them at 55C for 72 hours.

Finished with salt, pepper, butter, and a really hot cast iron pan.


Got excessive with some short ribs and cooked them sous vide for 72 hours @ 55C, after smoking one set. Result: fantastic! Was not going for a typical braise texture (flakey, falling apart), but rather was aiming for very tender but still a bit steak-like. Was really excellent. The unsmoked version was like a super-tender roast beef. The smoked one, though, was just perfect.


07 July 2013

Sous Vide Begins

or: "The Inevitability of the Middle Aged Modernist"

New Immersion Circulator: Friend or Foe? Undecided.
I got some new kit to play with. A relatively cheap vacuum packer to start. (The eventual upgrade will be a floorstanding chamber model.) It was only a matter of time before an immersion circulator found its way here.
Vacuum packing things is really quite fun. Here's some broccoli.

First thing: steaks! Got some ribeyes from the Ginger Pig, salted each and added a bit of rendered beef fat for no good reason, plus peppered 2 of them. Cooked @ 56C for 6 hours. Finished with a sear in the cast iron pan with butter after dredging in cracked black pepper. Then deglazed the pan with the liquid from the cooking bags and reduced for sauce.

Verdict: excellent! Great flavour as always but much more tender than normal for ribeyes. Big hit with all four of us. Definitely had the "edge to edge" consistency of doneness the method is praised for.

28l of 56C water and 4 ribeyes.
Thoughts: definitely worthwhile. Would use again for tougher cuts of thick steaks to get that lovely tenderness. Might nudge the temp down a little. Probably would not use on fillet mignon, unless using for timing purposes. Also not likely to use for skirt steak/onglet as the finishing sear is not much shorter than how I would normally cook one entirely, but possibly worth an experiment to fiddle with texture.

This is a repurposed aquarium. Looks like it's almost fulfilling intended use here.


Next up: eggs. Tried a few temperatures.  The well-documented problem with eggs cooked to a precise temperature is that the most people prefer the whites cooked more than the yolk. There are something like 4 main proteins involved in turning an egg into different stages of cookedness and they denature at different temps. Cooking the yolk to an optimal consistency in a water bath will leave the white too soft for most people. Here's what I've discovered so far.

Poached eggs: cook at 62C for 45-60 minutes, then crack into water on low simmer. At this temp, they still crack like raw eggs. Whites are cohesive enough to keep a nice full shape around the yolk. Does not take long to firm them up while leaving the yolk as-is.

Poachy.
Egg for eating as-is: I like 65C. The yolk firms up but still has a rich, satiny texture. The whites are custardy but solid enough to be nice rather than off-putting. Obviously high-quality fresh eggs are a must.


And let's vacuum pack a slice of bread.